Applying Asphalt Shingles






Applying Asphalt Shingles



Applying Asphalt Shingles

So, you’re thinking about tackling a roofing project and want to install asphalt shingles yourself? Excellent choice! Asphalt shingles are a popular roofing material for a reason: they’re relatively affordable, durable, and come in a wide variety of styles and colors. While it’s definitely a challenging DIY undertaking, with the right preparation, tools, and know-how, you can successfully install asphalt shingles and save yourself a significant amount of money on labor costs.

Is DIY Asphalt Shingle Installation Right for You?

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty details, let’s be honest with ourselves. Roofing is demanding work. It requires physical stamina, a good head for heights (or at least the ability to overcome any fear of heights), and a willingness to learn and follow instructions carefully. It’s not a project to take lightly. Consider these factors:

  • Physical Condition: Can you comfortably climb ladders, carry heavy bundles of shingles, and work for extended periods in various weather conditions?
  • Experience: Have you done other home improvement projects before? Experience with using tools, following instructions, and problem-solving will be invaluable.
  • Time Commitment: Installing a roof is a time-consuming process. It can take several days or even weeks, depending on the size of your roof and your pace of work.
  • Safety Concerns: Roofing is inherently dangerous. Falls are a serious risk. You need to be comfortable working at heights and take all necessary safety precautions.
  • Local Codes and Permits: Check your local building codes and permit requirements before starting any work. You may need a permit for roofing work.

If you answered “no” to several of these questions, it might be best to hire a professional roofing contractor. However, if you’re confident in your abilities and willing to put in the effort, then let’s move on!

Gathering Your Supplies and Tools

Preparation is key to a successful roofing project. Before you even think about climbing onto your roof, make sure you have all the necessary supplies and tools. This will save you time and frustration in the long run.

Essential Tools:

  • Hammer or Roofing Nailer: A hammer is the traditional tool, but a roofing nailer will significantly speed up the process. If using a nailer, make sure it’s adjusted to the correct depth to avoid over-driving or under-driving the nails.
  • Utility Knife with Extra Blades: For cutting shingles and underlayment. Sharp blades are essential for clean and safe cuts.
  • Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
  • Chalk Line: For marking straight lines.
  • Roofing Square: For ensuring shingles are properly aligned.
  • Pry Bar: For removing old shingles.
  • Shingle Removal Shovel (Optional): Can make removing old shingles much easier.
  • Ladder: A sturdy and safe ladder is crucial. Make sure it’s the right height and properly secured.
  • Safety Harness and Rope: Essential for fall protection.
  • Gloves: To protect your hands from abrasions and cuts.
  • Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from debris.
  • Dust Mask or Respirator: To protect your lungs from dust and debris, especially when removing old shingles.
  • Broom or Leaf Blower: For cleaning the roof surface.

Required Materials:

  • Asphalt Shingles: Calculate the number of shingles you need based on the square footage of your roof, plus extra for waste and cuts. Always buy extra! It’s much better to have too many than not enough. Consider purchasing an extra bundle for future repairs as well – dye lots can change over time.
  • Underlayment: Underlayment provides a waterproof barrier between the shingles and the roof deck. There are different types of underlayment, including felt paper and synthetic underlayment. Synthetic underlayment is generally more durable and water-resistant.
  • Roofing Nails: Use the correct type and size of roofing nails, as specified by the shingle manufacturer. Galvanized nails are a good choice to prevent rust.
  • Drip Edge: Drip edge is installed along the edges of the roof to prevent water from running behind the fascia.
  • Flashing: Flashing is used around chimneys, vents, and skylights to prevent water leaks. Common types include step flashing, continuous flashing, and base flashing.
  • Roof Cement (Asphalt Caulk): For sealing around flashing and other penetrations.
  • Ice and Water Shield (Optional): In areas with heavy snow or ice, ice and water shield is recommended along the eaves and in valleys to provide extra protection against water damage.
  • Ridge Cap Shingles: These are used to cover the ridge of the roof where the two slopes meet.
  • Starter Course Shingles: These are specifically designed to be installed as the first course of shingles along the eaves.

Preparing the Roof Deck

Before you can start installing new shingles, you need to prepare the roof deck. This involves removing the old roofing materials and ensuring the deck is clean, dry, and structurally sound.

Removing Old Shingles:

  1. Safety First: Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and a dust mask when removing old shingles. Secure your safety harness and rope to a sturdy anchor point.
  2. Start at the Top: Begin removing shingles at the top of the roof and work your way down.
  3. Use a Pry Bar or Shingle Removal Shovel: These tools will help you lift the shingles and remove the nails.
  4. Dispose of Old Shingles Properly: Old shingles can be heavy and bulky. Check with your local waste management company for disposal options. Many recycling centers accept asphalt shingles.

Inspecting the Roof Deck:

Once the old shingles are removed, carefully inspect the roof deck for any signs of damage, such as rot, decay, or water stains. Pay close attention to areas around chimneys, vents, and skylights.

  • Replace Damaged Sheathing: If you find any damaged sheathing, replace it with new plywood or OSB. Make sure the new sheathing is the same thickness as the old sheathing.
  • Secure Loose Sheathing: If any sheathing is loose, secure it with screws or nails.
  • Remove Old Nails and Staples: Remove any old nails or staples that are sticking up from the deck.

Cleaning the Roof Deck:

After repairing the roof deck, clean it thoroughly with a broom or leaf blower to remove any debris, dust, or dirt. A clean surface will ensure proper adhesion of the underlayment and shingles.

Installing Underlayment

Underlayment is a crucial component of a roofing system. It provides a waterproof barrier between the shingles and the roof deck, protecting the roof from water damage. There are two main types of underlayment: felt paper and synthetic underlayment.

Felt Paper Underlayment:

Felt paper is a traditional type of underlayment made from asphalt-saturated paper. It’s relatively inexpensive but less durable than synthetic underlayment. There are two common weights of felt paper: 15-pound and 30-pound. 30-pound felt paper is thicker and more durable than 15-pound felt paper.

Synthetic Underlayment:

Synthetic underlayment is made from woven or spun-bonded polymers. It’s more expensive than felt paper but offers several advantages, including:

  • Greater Durability: Synthetic underlayment is more resistant to tearing and punctures than felt paper.
  • Better Water Resistance: Synthetic underlayment is more water-resistant than felt paper, providing better protection against leaks.
  • Lighter Weight: Synthetic underlayment is lighter than felt paper, making it easier to handle.
  • Longer Lifespan: Synthetic underlayment has a longer lifespan than felt paper.

Installation Steps:

  1. Start at the Eaves: Begin installing the underlayment at the eaves (the lower edge of the roof) and work your way up.
  2. Overlap Each Course: Overlap each course of underlayment by at least 2 inches. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended overlap.
  3. Secure with Staples or Nails: Secure the underlayment to the roof deck with staples or roofing nails. Use enough fasteners to hold the underlayment in place, but don’t over-fasten, as this can damage the underlayment.
  4. Roll Out the Underlayment Straight: Keep the underlayment taut and aligned as you roll it out to avoid wrinkles and bubbles.
  5. Around Penetrations: Cut the underlayment carefully around any penetrations, such as vents or chimneys. Seal the edges of the underlayment around these penetrations with roofing cement.

Installing Drip Edge

Drip edge is a metal flashing that is installed along the edges of the roof to prevent water from running behind the fascia and causing damage. It’s typically installed before the underlayment along the eaves and after the underlayment along the rakes (the sloped edges of the roof).

Installation Steps:

  1. Eaves: Install the drip edge along the eaves, overlapping each piece by at least 2 inches. Secure the drip edge with roofing nails, spacing them about 12 inches apart. The drip edge should extend slightly beyond the edge of the roof deck.
  2. Rakes: Install the drip edge along the rakes, overlapping each piece by at least 2 inches. Secure the drip edge with roofing nails, spacing them about 12 inches apart. The drip edge should overlap the underlayment along the rakes.
  3. Corners: At the corners of the roof, cut and bend the drip edge to create a neat and watertight seal.

Installing Flashing

Flashing is used around chimneys, vents, skylights, and other penetrations to prevent water from leaking into the roof. There are several different types of flashing, including step flashing, continuous flashing, and base flashing.

Step Flashing:

Step flashing is used along walls that intersect with the roof, such as chimney walls or sidewalls. It consists of individual pieces of flashing that are installed in steps, overlapping each other. Each piece of step flashing is bent at a 90-degree angle, with one part running up the wall and the other part lying flat on the roof deck.

Continuous Flashing:

Continuous flashing is a single piece of flashing that is used along the base of a chimney or other penetration. It’s typically bent to conform to the shape of the penetration and sealed with roofing cement.

Base Flashing:

Base flashing is used to create a watertight seal around the base of a vent or pipe. It typically consists of a metal collar that fits around the vent or pipe and a flange that extends onto the roof deck. The flange is sealed to the roof deck with roofing cement.

Installation Steps (General):

  1. Prepare the Area: Clean the area around the penetration thoroughly. Remove any debris or loose materials.
  2. Install the Flashing: Install the appropriate type of flashing according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  3. Seal with Roofing Cement: Seal the edges of the flashing with roofing cement to create a watertight seal.
  4. Overlap Shingles: Overlap the shingles over the flashing to further protect it from water damage.

Installing the Asphalt Shingles

Now for the main event – installing the asphalt shingles! This is where all your preparation pays off.

Laying the Starter Course:

The starter course is a row of shingles installed along the eaves that provides a solid base for the first course of shingles. Starter shingles are designed to be installed with the adhesive strip facing upwards, along the edge of the roof. This helps to seal the first course of shingles to the eaves and prevent wind uplift.

  1. Trim the Shingles: You might need to trim the starter shingles to fit properly along the eaves. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for trimming.
  2. Align with the Drip Edge: Align the starter shingles with the drip edge, ensuring they overhang the drip edge by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
  3. Nail the Shingles: Nail the starter shingles in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Typically, this involves using four nails per shingle, placed about 1 inch above the adhesive strip.

Installing the First Course:

The first course of shingles is installed directly above the starter course. This course is crucial because it establishes the alignment for all subsequent courses.

  1. Align with the Starter Course: Align the bottom edge of the first course of shingles with the top edge of the starter course.
  2. Overlap Seams: Overlap the seams between the shingles according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This is typically a specific amount, such as 5 or 6 inches.
  3. Nail the Shingles: Nail the shingles in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Typically, this involves using four nails per shingle, placed in a specific pattern. Ensure the nails penetrate through both layers of shingle (the starter course and the first course).

Installing Subsequent Courses:

Continue installing the subsequent courses of shingles, overlapping them according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Maintain a consistent alignment and nail pattern throughout the roof.

  1. Maintain Alignment: Use a chalk line to mark a straight line for each course of shingles. This will help you maintain consistent alignment and avoid crooked rows.
  2. Stagger Seams: Stagger the seams between the shingles in each course to prevent water from seeping through. The manufacturer’s instructions will specify the recommended stagger pattern.
  3. Nail Properly: Use the correct type and size of roofing nails and nail them in the correct location. Over-driving or under-driving the nails can damage the shingles and compromise their performance.
  4. Work in Sections: Work in manageable sections, installing a few rows of shingles at a time. This will help you stay organized and avoid making mistakes.

Cutting Shingles:

You’ll need to cut shingles to fit around vents, chimneys, and other penetrations. Use a utility knife with a sharp blade and a straight edge to make clean and accurate cuts.

  1. Measure Carefully: Measure the area where the shingle needs to be cut.
  2. Mark the Cutting Line: Mark the cutting line on the shingle with a pencil or chalk line.
  3. Cut the Shingle: Place the shingle on a flat surface and cut along the cutting line with a utility knife.
  4. Seal the Edges: Seal the cut edges of the shingle with roofing cement to prevent water from seeping in.

Installing Ridge Cap Shingles

Ridge cap shingles are used to cover the ridge of the roof where the two slopes meet. They provide a watertight seal and a finished look.

  1. Cut the Shingles: Cut the shingles into individual pieces, typically about 12 inches wide.
  2. Bend the Shingles: Bend each shingle in the center to form a cap.
  3. Overlap the Shingles: Overlap the shingles along the ridge, typically by about 6 inches.
  4. Nail the Shingles: Nail the shingles in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Typically, this involves using two nails on each side of the ridge.
  5. Seal the Ends: Seal the exposed ends of the ridge cap shingles with roofing cement.

Finishing Touches and Clean Up

Congratulations! You’ve installed your asphalt shingles. Now, it’s time to put on the finishing touches and clean up the job site.

Inspecting Your Work:

Take a walk around your roof and carefully inspect your work. Look for any misaligned shingles, loose nails, or gaps in the flashing. Make any necessary repairs or adjustments.

Cleaning Up the Job Site:

Remove any debris, scrap materials, and tools from the roof. Sweep or blow off any loose granules from the shingles. Dispose of all waste materials properly. This is important to prevent hazards and maintain a clean and safe environment.

Final Sealing:

Apply a final bead of roofing cement around any penetrations, such as vents, chimneys, and skylights. This will ensure a watertight seal and prevent leaks.

Safety Considerations Throughout the Project

Roofing is inherently dangerous, and safety should be your top priority throughout the entire project. Here are some essential safety precautions to follow:

  • Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and a safety harness with a rope secured to a sturdy anchor point.
  • Use a Sturdy Ladder: Use a sturdy and safe ladder that is properly secured. Ensure the ladder is the correct height for the job.
  • Be Aware of Weather Conditions: Avoid working on the roof in wet, windy, or icy conditions.
  • Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue. Roofing is physically demanding work.
  • Communicate with Others: If you’re working with others, communicate clearly and effectively.
  • Avoid Working Alone: It’s always best to work with at least one other person.
  • Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to do more than you’re comfortable with. If you’re unsure about a particular task, consult with a professional.
  • Keep the Work Area Clean: Keep the work area clean and free of debris to prevent slips and falls.
  • Protect Ground Personnel: Ensure the area below the roof is clear of people and objects. Use warning signs to alert people to the overhead work.
  • Proper Lifting Techniques: Use proper lifting techniques when handling heavy materials, such as bundles of shingles. Bend your knees and keep your back straight.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Here are some common mistakes to avoid when installing asphalt shingles:

  • Using the Wrong Nails: Using the wrong type or size of nails can damage the shingles and compromise their performance. Always use roofing nails that are specifically designed for asphalt shingles.
  • Over-Driving or Under-Driving Nails: Over-driving nails can damage the shingles, while under-driving nails can cause them to come loose. Use a consistent nailing technique and adjust your nail gun accordingly.
  • Improper Overlap: Improper overlap of the shingles can lead to water leaks. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended overlap.
  • Misaligned Shingles: Misaligned shingles can create an unsightly appearance and compromise the roof’s performance. Use a chalk line to maintain consistent alignment.
  • Skipping Underlayment: Skipping the underlayment can leave your roof vulnerable to water damage. Always install underlayment to provide a waterproof barrier.
  • Poor Flashing Installation: Poorly installed flashing can lead to leaks around chimneys, vents, and skylights. Take your time and ensure the flashing is properly sealed.
  • Neglecting Safety: Neglecting safety precautions can lead to serious injuries. Always prioritize safety and wear appropriate safety gear.
  • Ignoring Local Codes: Ignoring local building codes can result in fines and require you to redo the work. Always check with your local building department before starting any roofing work.

When to Call a Professional

While installing asphalt shingles is a DIY-able project, there are certain situations when it’s best to call a professional roofing contractor:

  • Extensive Roof Damage: If your roof has extensive damage, such as rot, decay, or structural issues, it’s best to hire a professional to assess the damage and make the necessary repairs.
  • Complex Roof Design: If your roof has a complex design with multiple slopes, angles, and penetrations, it can be challenging to install shingles correctly. A professional roofer will have the experience and expertise to handle complex roofing projects.
  • Lack of Experience: If you have little or no experience with roofing, it’s best to hire a professional to ensure the job is done correctly. Mistakes can be costly and time-consuming to fix.
  • Time Constraints: If you don’t have the time to dedicate to a roofing project, hiring a professional can save you time and hassle.
  • Permit Requirements: In some areas, a permit is required for roofing work. If you’re not comfortable obtaining a permit or dealing with building inspectors, a professional roofer can handle this for you.

Conclusion

Applying asphalt shingles is a challenging but rewarding DIY project. By following these steps, taking the necessary safety precautions, and avoiding common mistakes, you can successfully install your own roof and save money on labor costs. Remember to take your time, be patient, and don’t hesitate to consult with a professional if you have any questions or concerns. Good luck!